Just Bought My first Frontera..Think ive been sold a Dog :-(

[Red Oktober]

though ms164 forgot to tell you that he keeps on being given ideas by nice peeps who keep posting piccys of their cars

[MSI64]

SHHHHHH
Thats a secret not everyone on here needs to know that

[Red Oktober]

[rangaKoo]

Yeah, rip that thing out of the filler pipe.

Mine is removed ready for pumping diesel in to the vehicle, however I believe you just undo the rubber pipes, undo the filler neck thing and pull it out, then after that you should be able to remove the offending piece.

Let us know how you get on with everything mate.

Si

[outergods]

Welcome mate you havent bought a dog, you have bought a Fronty. Its similar, but a where a dog would love you and fetch your slippers, you will find that your fronty will love you to bits and try and eat you any time you work on it

Mine was a similar experience to yours. Electrics not working, shattered rear spring, brake lines ruptured, alternator not charging.

200 quid sorted all the problems, and i now have a rather nice monster

Keep at it. its worth it.

Matt

[Dalov]

To Add to all the above i now think the steering rack is badly worn

Unless i can find a VERY cheap mechanic within the next week i might have to EBAY the car and look at getting a boring Vectra / Mondeo as i have to take my family to London on Christmas eve and frankly this car aint going to do it without VERY LARGE garage bills ( i wouldnt trust myself to do a tyre change on a uni-cycle )

So if any one knows a mechanic that works for little more than a constant flow of Tea and Bacon rolls in the area...PLease point him my way i will be eternally grateful

[Drift]

The steering will need tightening at worst it may need an idler around £30 ish.
Simple enough jobs even cheap at a garage

[Dalov]

I am determined to keep this car and have started doing little bits and bobs to it now

With the exhaust, I have trawled around and managed to get the missing rubber bracket at the back as the tail pipe was sitting on the rear spring.
As money is VERY tight i have put a "GunGum" steel wrap around the hole on the back pipe that had been made due to wearing on the spring.

Its now a shed load quieter and no vibration.

Kerbside, I have had a good look under the car and wirebrushed (gently) around the corrosion and found that all the brake lines etc etc are in reasonably good order and there are no nasty rusty bits.

I have disconnected the stupid looking blue lights that were part of the washer jets and will be getting some original ones put on next week

Im in the process (see electrical help forum) of connecting the front spots that have been mounted on the bullbars but no wiring on them.

Ive removed the moonroof and replaced the seal/trim.

there are new plugs leads etc etc (still gotta do the air filter )

Tuesday the car is being picked up by a local mechanic to have a look at the steering as there is a ton of play in it BUT the steering rack seems fine

Also Tuesday the binding noise coming from the rear brakes is being sorted !

I do have a NEW question...On the rear lights... when the lights are turned on, only the lights built into the bumper come on and they are also the only brake lights , is that correct as the larger upper lights have a spare red lensed area with no connections (top of cluster)...Just doesnt seem too bright to me...If it is right is it possible or indeed legal to buy a connection and fit it to the upper light on the cluster to have this as lighting and braking in addition to the ones on the bumper ?

Again any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

Dale

[Icy Malt]

The play in the steering can be easily adjusted, there is a nut and screw on the top of the steering box.

I have just doen mine with the help of this forum, (I am in no way technically minded).
Have a good look in the steering section, all the required info is in there

[Dalov]

Thanks for that, I had a look a little while ago...Looks reasonably straight forward...Only problem i have is jacking up the car as i live on a hill .

Now all i have to do is work out if my rear lights are working correctly

[Drift]

Now all i have to do is work out if my rear lights are working correctly

Yes they are

[Icy Malt]

No need to jack it up, the adjuster is located on the top of the steering box, just follow the steering column down thru' the engine bay and at the bottom is a square box.

On top of this box is a 17mm nut with a slot cut into the top of the bolt

It a long reach down into the engine bay and a bit tight but easily done

[Dalov]

Thanks Icy, thats my finger numbing job for tomorrow then

Drift, Have you heard of anyone wiring up the top lights in the cluster to the ones in the bumper...Just seems those small lights arent really man enough for the job...particularly the brake lights.

Many thanks

[rangaKoo]

If a mechanic tells you that you need an idler arm you can find them a LOT cheaper by looking around than what you'll get quoted. By all means let him fit them, but ask him what is the best price he can get the arm for as they vary between £30 up to £90 or so from Vx!

That's probably more likely what the problem is, the idlers go very quietly and one day you have play in the steering!

That's all that was required on my SWB anyway and then the steering was really good.

Si

[Icy Malt]

Very good expalnation of steering box adjustment can be found here

POST No. 12
http://fronteraowners.co.uk/v-web/bulletin/bb/viewtopic.php?t=2931

[Dalov]

Again, thanks Gents.

I will keep you all posted on how all the repairs go.

[Drift]

Info on lights here

http://fronteraowners.co.uk/v-web/bulle ... sc&start=0

[Dalov]

Back again !

Well i found the 17mm nut with the cut on the top of the thread it was Rusty as hell, i applied lashing of WD40 and left it..Still no joy..I gave it a few gentle taps with a small hammer and it freed off.

It wouldnt tighten any more BUT i could loosen it, not sure if its right or not but when i moved the nut the whole thing turned as in the bolt end with the cut in it ...is this right or not ???

Needless to say, i turned it back to the tight position it was already in and stepped away

I took the car out for a spin and the steering is just as sloppy as before...Any other ideas

[I Live For FOG]

you need to free off turn centre bolt in a quarter of a turn tighten it holding centre slot with screwdriver so centre bolt does not to move

test

if ok its adjusted if not


free off turn centre bolt in another quarter of a turn tighten it holding centre slot with screwdriver so centre bolt does not to move

test

if ok its adjusted if not


free off turn centre bolt in another quarter of a turn tighten it holding centre slot with screwdriver so centre bolt does not to move

etc etc

[outergods]

Long wheel base lights will allow you to move all the lights up in to the body, or double up if you so wish.

Due to the shorties having a right hand hinge and the long wheel base having a left hand hinge its not a straight swap.

What i did was use in lenses from a LWB, and add the extra connections for the Brake / Tail light / Indicator in to the cluster. if you can solder, its a simple job. Then all you need do is extend the bumper cluster wires in to the body work.

Matt