Front diff swap/drop
From FogWiki
I've just done my third front diff swap, I may not have the easiest methods, but they are tried so I thought I would try and share them.
Contents |
Applies to
- All B series Fronteras
Required equipment
- Hammers, a few.
- spanners you will need (upper ball joint nuts may vary)
- 14mm open end 2 off
- 17mm ring
- 22 ring
- sockets, 17 and 22
- long socket extension bar
- pry bars
- jack
- side cutters
- small flat screwdriver
- ball joint splitter
Other stuff:
- cv grease
- normal grease
- wd40 (always)
- replacement diff fluid (some molly would be nice too)
- copper slip
- zip ties
Difficulty Level
- Medium
Estimated time to complete
- 6-8 hours
Method
First up, the diff with its half shafts is wider than the gap underheath, it also hooks around the steering gubbins so unless you want to drop the whole lower arms and steering componentry you will need to get fingers into harms way and wiggle a bit.
So to start, jack the front end and support with axle stands off the chassis. Think about working height underneath, also think the stands getting in the way. I put them under the chassis rails at the u shaped supports for the vx jack, this is behind the front wheels and out of the way. On a SWB bear in mind the cars center of gravity, you dont want it nose diving off the stand.
Then remove the belly plate, drain the front diff overnight (it will still have a fluid in it when dropped so be prepared for a mop up).
Right, first job. Remove the 4 bolts holding the cross member behind the diff up and remove . Then the 4 bolts holding the prop on at the diff (open 14 spanners, rotate to get in). Dont worry about splitting it until the diff is free.
Now remove the brake calipers, tie up out of the way for the duration.
Now move to the control arms. If you have flipped the tops, life is easy here. If not split the uppers, either way support the lower arm with a jack that has room to lower after its split.
Heres a piccy of a flipped upper, in this case just undo the 3 bolts (early A's have 4)
You will nw need to get into the inner cv boot at the cup.
Here you can see the black rubber boot on the green cv cup. Break the metal band that holds it and cut to remove. Pull back the rubber from the cup and your greeted by the cv covered in black cv grease.
A pic of the end of the cv cup, notice the 6 slots for the cv's bearings and the groove around the near edge. A metal clip sits in this, if you get a small screwdriver into the gap between it and a slot it will easily lever out. With this removed you can pull the cv out of the cup (you ma need to lower the control arm on the jack to get enough movement and lift the upper arm to get inside).
At this point I would remove the auto hub, circlip within and remove the whole cv from the aea for a good cleaning. It would also give some extra room around the half shafts.
Repeat on the other side, then get the 17mm socket on a long extension and go for the 4 bolts per side that hold the diff into the hanger
See one of the bolts bottom corner of the green hanger. Remove all the bolts (dont worry the diff wont fall)
Then its time to get the 22mm spanner and socket out, these are 2 per side to hold the hanger to the chassis. Undo the fronts which are bolt and nut, then support the diff under the main body at the rear and remove the rear bolts that are into a blind hole (may take some effort).
With these out the diff is now reluctant to fall as the hangers are wedged between the steering and the cv cups inside the lower control arm. Lower the diff slightly and if possible pry over to the passenger side a few inches. Slide a screwdriver betweeen the hanger and the diff on the drivers side. The aim is to pop the small half shaft of the drivers side out of the diff and allow the drivers side to fall (under control) and be withdrawn out from under the drivers side.
Insert screwdriver between the diff body and the green hanger.
This is the short shaft you aim to withdraw. There is a technique, it will come, it helps to have someone hold the diff onto the jack and help twist it a little to assist.
Essentially the diff is now out of the car, refit is pretty much a reverse operation. Some pointers are:-
Ensure the long shaft is in and bolted to the diff before you try to get it back under, I know people that have put one in whilst under there, but its a long shaft and much easier to put in with the diff stood on end and the shaft dropped into it. The diff will go back up with those 17mm's tight on the passenger side. Hang the drivers side short shaft in place (no bolts) before offering the passenger side up. Support the main body whilst wrestling the passenger side in place and loosely put in the 2 22mm headed bolts into the passenger side. Find the sweet spot height wise to slip the short shaft back into the drivers side and insert the 4 bolts, dont try to refit the last 2 22mm's before loosely refitting the prop. Then its awkward but the last 2 22mm's will go in with patience and clean bolts.
The cv's are a repeat. The jack under the control arm will help locate the cv's and the upper ball joint to the control arm. Wreslting with the cv boot covered with grease is hard, try to clean it up before hand and put the grease behind the cv knuckle so the edges are dry when you try and pop it over the rim.
Dont forget to re fill the diff with fluid.
I hope this is of use to someone, you can do a no frills swap easily in a day with help. I have done 2 on my own so it can be done solo, but help is better. As mentioned, there are lots of bits off the car and its a good oportunity to clean and check cv's wheel bearings, auto hubs, brakes and grease nipples for the prop.
Submitted by
- Alex
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Categories: Axles | How To | A series
