B Series - Improve power
From FogWiki
The Goal: Improve power and MPG
The Test Period: 12 Months
The Results:
Average MPG up by 30%, Power up by 38% (power measured on rolling road).
Contents |
Parts Used:
- Hyclone
- Replacement Air Induction System
- Synthetic lubricants
- Flushing and Cleaning Chemicals
- Champion EON2 Spark Plugs
Total spend – c£380 over 12 months
Savings – c£785 over 12 months
The Method:
MORE AIR PLEASE!
The first part of the vehicle to receive my attentions was the air inlet to the standard air box, which followed a torturous route from the inner wing to the opposite side of the box, changing directions four times through five differing cross-sections, reducing the flow capabilities by around 45%.
I replaced the standard plastic components with a length of 70mm bore flexible aluminium ducting and a homemade stainless steel air collector to maximise the air available to the box, positioning the collector just behind the front grille. I found that by trapping the neck of the collector between the radiator side and the hole in the front bodywork behind the grille the collector required no bracket assembly to keep it in position. However, to prevent any corrosion I wrapped three or four layers of gaffer tape around the tube at that point. I later discovered that the tube tended to fracture due to vibration so I carried two layers of the gaffer tape coating up the tube to the air box.
This first operation gave me a little extra “pep” but little else.
I then looked at the whole of the air induction system, which a standard contains three resonator boxes, that I gather, are intended to separate any water from the air when wading with the car. As I do not take my vehicle in water deep enough to cause me a problem I set about designing a replacement induction system.
I had the system built (pictures on the web site) from aluminium and bought in silicone rubber tube after taking advice form several people in the tuning and racing industry.
The results were an immediate improvement in acceleration and top-end power, but with a flat spot on the power curve.
I checked everything out and had a technician at my local Vauxhall dealership check out my engine management system; he found that my system had been set up for use with air conditioning – my car does not have it fitted!, he uploaded the latest software of the correct type and recalibrated the sensors.
What a difference! I could now pull away using a higher gear and less RPM, there was no flat spot and the engine ran much quieter.
The bad news was that my MPG was suffering, still better that standard but “could do better”.
Slippery Synthetics
I turned to another pal in the racing game and asked his advice.
He suggested that I use synthetic lubricants in the engine and drive train, to get the friction down and improve cooling.
I replaced the diff, transfer box and gearbox oils with quality RedLine lubricants of the correct grade. –
- 75W/80 MTL (with an EP rating of 5w/30) in the gearbox, same for the transfer case
- 75W90 MT90 is available for noisy gearboxes
- 80W/90 in the front diff to reduce drag
- 80W140 in the rear diff to reduce noise and heat build up
Shockproof Lightweight at EP 140 is also available, great if you are towing, but for a noisy rear diff use Heavyweight at EP 250
After several hundred miles, I really began to notice the difference; this is apparently normal as the remnants of the mineral-based oil take a while to amalgamate with the synthetic stuff. The car felt smoother, quieter again than before the lube change and my fuel lasted longer.
To take the next step I discussed the options with several manufacturers of auto chemicals, as I had noticed that my engine oil was black after about a hundred miles, this usually means that there is a high proportion of carbon flowing around the engine or the oil is being burned because the piston rings are sticking in their grooves and not sealing properly.
CHEMICAL HEAD
I concluded it would be easier and cheaper to take the chemical approach rather than strip the head, clean it and flow it then rebuild (at around £65 for the gasket set you can see why). Eventually I used a heavy-duty engine (oil) flush from Germany (only available through limited trade outlets), a Forte fuel additive which claims to clean the fuel system the injectors, valves and cylinder head, and on-going good old Redex Petrol treatment every second tank.
I used the Forte product and gained a few more MPG but the oil became even blacker,
I flushed the engine out using the chemical flush twice, once using the old oil and once using some cheap 10/40 mineral-based stuff from a corner shop with a fresh filter as the mechanic who sold me the flushing agent told me it was aggressive and should only be used with 10/40 or heaver oil.
I refilled the engine with a Vauxhall synthetic 5w/40; the oil maintained its colour for around 500 miles the engine ran smoother but a little noisier at the head.
At the time, I drove more in town than long runs so I changed my oil every 5000 miles.
A change in job meant that I would be driving more long-distances and I found the oil seemed to be loosing it viscosity after around 1000 miles especially in hot weather, I had the power output checked by a pal with a rolling road and then changed the oil for a quality 10w40 synthetic, again checking the power output. At the bottom end, the power curve stayed the same but to my surprise at the top end there was an improvement and the engine ran quieter.
I still change my oil at 5000 miles the engine is becoming noticeably quieter, normal I am assured as it can take up to ten (yes 10) normal oil changes to get rid of the old mineral based &%@# – sludge, carbon build-up and varnish deposits – from an engine run on mineral or semi-synthetic oils from new.
OVERHEATING
The mileage on the Speedo now reads 75000 the weather is getting very hot, it is the time of year when every driver needs an ACU and the engine is beginning to show signs of heat stress.
I needed to take drastic steps to reduce the problem.
Using heavy-duty flushing agents (2-pack Holts) on the system and for good measure changed the thermostat.
TIP: On the X22SE engine the stat is a big expense as it is built into the housing so just buy a thermostat housing gasket if you have to do the same and check the thermostat in a container of hot water (just boiling) once you have taken it off to back flush the engine block.
An improvement in the over-heating situation but I still was not happy in traffic, the cooling fans on the rad were working overtime.
I used the same flushing agent again, using it and the neutraliser double strength this time following the instructions to the letter. Another load of iron particles and lumps of chalk removed, I refilled with red antifreeze (only recommended for engines after 1998, but is guaranteed to give 5 years protection) and a Red Line product called Water Wetter at 2% solution.
The effects were a reduction of heat build up in the engine, I am still getting the air out of the system, god knows how the mechanics do it but there must be a knack to it.
I chatted to a mate who designs and builds engines for the Mercedes group who suggested that I check my spark plug heat rating as well.
PLUG CHECK
After I checked my plugs (BPR6EK GKN twin electrode), I found that they were too hot (tell-tale signs are a glazed appearance of the ceramic with a green tinge near the tip where the copper in the core has oxidised) for the engine, these were fitted when I bought the car, but I have subsequently found that they are the incorrect plug and in extreme cases can cause piston crown damage, so be warned.
I had lengthy conversations with several contacts who suggested that I fit the OE plug for the engine – Champion RC10YC4 as it had been specially developed for the GM group and my engine in particular. I did so gapping them at 47 thou’ or 1.193mm - another suggestion from a racing contact. The engine runs great, cooler, its smoother, and MPG started to improve immediately.
LATEST DEVELOPMENTS
After deliberating and discussing spark plugs with Champion technical folk, I decided to bite the bullet and use EON2 plugs, gapped at 45 thou’ or 1.143mm.
I am not one for using the latest thing because it is the “in” thing to do, so I was delighted when my MPG improved again and power (measured) has also improved across the rev range, engine temperature is down at around 88 degrees, despite the air still in the cooling system.
I am assured by Champion that the F1 racing pedigree of these plugs ensures that they will last for around 50,000 miles, and they will replace them if they fail before then!
The last piece of trickery I have used is to cool the air running through the induction system, by covering it with 15mm fire resistant foam insulation with an aluminium coating used in the refrigeration industry; it is not as pretty as the nice blue of the silicone rubber with polished aluminium tube but measured power at mid and top revs is up again and induction noise is down (and I don’t have to polish it).
There you have it, 12 months development work using standard engine components – the insurance company is happy - and a little ingenuity, not a massive layout in cash, but a great deal of satisfaction and some lovely savings!
Due to the lubricant changes involved in this adventure and my subsequent savings, I have become a reseller of Red Line Products as I am convinced that they give long term value for money and protection far exceeding the oils usually used by Vauxhall.
In the last 12 months I have built three race engines, four gearboxes all now running using quality synthetic oils, wear is almost eliminated, smooth gear changes that on a racing dog box were unheard of using mineral oils.
In fact if you think about it, how much cash do Vauxhall make by using cheaper mineral or semi-synthetic lubricants, bearing in mind wear factors and the inherent acid production as a by product of heat absorption, sludge, varnish deposits (less on non leaded engines), plus the effects on copper synchromesh gearboxes and diff assemblies running with mineral oils?
Anon
