2.0 to 3.1?

[lee771]

Just looking for peoples thoughts.

I have a trooper 3.1 that I've blown the rear diff on, but got a bloody good engine.

My swb 2.0 is running well and engine is sweet but toying with the idea of (getting a mechanic to) dropping the 3.1 in to the swb then putting bigger rubber on to make up for the gearing.

Are there any major head aches with this conversion? I'm pretty sure most of my dash would be useless afterwards, and have heard the fuel gauge ect wont work, what about clutch and gear box ect?

Any info or advice would be great even if its just to say I'm mad and should leave it alone. Just like the idea of a 3.1 swb and I like deep water, so diesel would be better.

Thanks

Lee

[RatCav]

You would be better swapping the gearbox as well. They are different. Then you would be having to modify the propshafts as well. You will also lose the rev counter as the 2.0 takes its feed off the alternator, and the 3.1 off the fuel pump. I would transfer the 3.1 gauges across and swap over the relevent wiring as well. Different fuel tanks as the 2.0 has an in tank fuel pump. You might be able to swap across the trooper one.

I mean everything is doable, but for the sake of a rear diff I would just change that on the Trooper and have 2 working trucks. If you are really desperate for a Diesel A Series I would just buy a 2.8.

[Wilberforce]

And you'd be needing to do something about diff ratios, too.
One member a while back dropped a 2.8 Trooper lump into his 2.0, and while it was running quite happily, the diff ratios on a petrol car meant that anything above 60 MPH was pretty much redlining the engine; the other end of this meant that if you put the car in first low ratio, you'd be outpaced by most tortoises.

[robbie]

As above. Speaking from experience and running 31" tyres you have to change diffs on a petrol conversion.

[RatCav]

For reference the 3.1 Troopers run 4.555 diffs. I cannot remember the gear ratio's off the top of my head.

[Retro Pedro]

And you'd be needing to do something about diff ratios, too.
One member a while back dropped a 2.8 Trooper lump into his 2.0, and while it was running quite happily, the diff ratios on a petrol car meant that anything above 60 MPH was pretty much redlining the engine; the other end of this meant that if you put the car in first low ratio, you'd be outpaced by most tortoises.

It was your old mucker Si (rangaKoo) Jimbo
Hopefully Si's old post will pull through to tell the story of his hybrid 2.8 conversion.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11065

[snapper]

Go get yourself another axle for the trooper, bit like the one I've got sat in my yard and no, your not having it cos it's either going to go on O-no when the clutch goes or...

Trooper LSD Axles seem to go for around the 120 to 150 mark depending on condition. Easy enough job to change over normally, the mare I had changing the one on Truck the other week was an exception.

Otherwise, look for a 2.8 or a 2.5 truck with a dead engine that you can pick up cheap and swap the engine over. Not sure if the trooper gearbox is the same or not, but the 3.1 will fit the 2.8 box. Days work to do the swap on a 2.8 if you've got the gear and don't fek about.

[RatCav]

The 2.0 has the MSG gearbox and different bellhousing bolt pattern to everything else. Being different boxes you cannot just swap the bellhousings over.

[lee771]

[quote="snapper"]"Go get yourself another axle for the trooper, bit like the one I've got sat in my yard and no, your not having it"

That's just teasing!!!

"Otherwise, look for a 2.8 or a 2.5 truck withave a dead engine"
There is a dead enginelss 2.8 on eBlag and I was thinking of doing just that!! Would a 2.5 doner work? 3.1 lwb would be nice.

Had a 2.8 lab about 8 years ago and loved it.

After reading all the comments and people's thoughts I've decided on leave the 2.0 as is I love it to much to feck her up trying to drop the 3.1 in and making her unusable everydayor long distance.

Would you guys say an axle swop is do able by some one with very basic knowledge?

Thanks for all the input so far

ATB

Lee

[Retro Pedro]

Wise move mate

[snapper]

Would you guys say an axle swop is do able by some one with very basic knowledge?

Depends, consideration is that everyone has to start somewhere and if you break it all down swapping an axle is just a combination of a number of smaller, simple tasks with a bit extra thrown in for good measure and all done in a set order.

There is a number of key points to consider before starting....

Knowledge:
A Haynes manual does cover the lot, and tbh while we do call it the ‘book of lies’ it's not that bad. Also there's the forum with a number of folks on here with more than enough knowledge and experience to help if needed. And there's always the old Spanner Party route whereby the only real knowledge normally required by the host is the ability to boil a kettle, microwave a lot of pasties and the skills to keep the spanner operators on the job rather than gathering at the back of the truck chewing the fat with a brew in their hand (in my experience, having attended a few over the years this is the hardest part).

Tools:
You really do need the gear, as a priority you MUST consider and take the correct precautions in respect to the weight of the truck that at some point (most of it) will be wanting to drop onto you. Me? I for one will NOT be getting underneath anything that is not well supported and IMHO a Hydraulic Jack (or any other jack for that matter) is not an acceptable means of support if you’re going to be in any position of risk. As a minimum when doing a rear axle change I put a large axle stand on each side under the chassis frame (just to the front of the chassis trailing arm bracket) AND a pair of smaller axle stands under the axle to just control that as well. Once the axle stands are in position the truck front wheels would also get chocked to prevent it rolling.

Actual tools, you need the sockets and spanners etc available to undo some lumpy stuff that has quite likely not moved since the truck came out the factory. IIRC 19mm is the largest required. Socket wise a 1/2" drive setup would be the minimum required although a 3/8" set comes in handy to get at the smaller nuts and bolts and to run off the nuts when they are loose. And in the case of the handbrake cables a 1/4" drive is handy for the 10mm bolts holding the handbrake cable on the brake back plate. Oh and a breaker bar to get the unwilling bolts moving and/or a windy gun. Not forgetting the brakes, the tools, bit's and the ability to knock up a brake line or two is handy and pre-make up a couple of short bits of brake pipe with one end folded over to seal the pipe and a union on the other end (purpose will be clear later on). Two lengths of rope/ratchet strap to aid lifting the axles with when manoeuvring them away/to the car.

Space/work area:
Off road a must, in a garage would be proper helpful but ONLY if you have the room to safely move about and work with the truck jacked up. Otherwise it's on the drive which should ideally be reasonably secure without the probability of the local youth wanting to see what's going on and also feking off with the tools if they're not watched like a hawk! Having to deal with the local wildlife while doing the axle will only extend the time it takes!

Bits required or likely to be required, a decision needs to be made if you're going to go down the line of replacing for new items such as the handbrake shoes and brake pads while you are in there, it just saves having to strip it down again later on at the maintenance point as you already have it in bits.

When doing the job on either of my trucks I have on hand some brake pipe, ends and brake fluid. A set of rear brake pads. A set of handbrake shoes. Oil for the axle (Note LSD Axles require special oil). Qty 2 rear anti-roll bar drop links (these quite often take far too long to undo or are just plain stuck, they are cheap enough to just save the time, cut off and replace with new) I also Inspect the three flexi brake lines (middle, and one each side to the callipers) and get spares ready if needed. Also lots of plastic box's (I use the ones that the local chinky use for the food, very handy to separate nuts and bolts out as you go).

Actual steps:

Easy enough, and the list below is how I have done the job (4 times now). Others on here may well have different ideas but the basics will be the same, this works for me. Note the steps describe an axle change on the Frontera 2.8 but the process is likely to be very similar. Also the vehicle described (an old 2.8 LWB) has the 3.1 in it and a trooper LSD rear axle.

While one person can carry out the work it is easier for two people.

For each individual step/area, if it means taking a nut or bolt off then the nuts and bolts are placed in a plastic box, the lid put on and it's marked where they come from.

Removal of the Axle:

1. Fully refurb the new axle and prep it to go on. This may include Brake Pipes (unless your comfy that the ones on the truck will come off easy) stripping the disk's and handbrake off if they are on there (required so you can hook up the handbrake cables). Rust/loose paint removal and a couple of coats of semi matt hammerite to the desired colour. Position the axle on two pieces of timber so the brake back plates are off the ground and you can get a trolley jack underneath the diff housing.
2. Immobilise the truck starting system.
3. Place the axle stands around the truck ready.
4. Loosen the rear wheel nuts (do not remove, just take the 'torque' off that they were set to when they were put on).
5. O/S Jack the vehicle up and position an axle stand under the chassis next to the trailing arm mounting point, with the rear wheel off the ground.
6. N/S Jack the vehicle up and position an axle stand under the chassis next to the trailing arm mounting point, with the rear wheel off the ground.
7. Position the jack under the rear axle diff housing and take some pressure up to allow for and position the two smaller axle stands under the axle. Then lower the axle onto the stands and put the jack to one side.
8. Remove the rear wheels, box up the wheel nuts (one box per side) and put to one side, put the wheels to one side.
9. Release the handbrake.
10. Check the axle stands are in position and holding the vehicle.
11. Undo the rear prop U/J from the rear diff (14mm Spanner x 2) and put the end of the propshaft to one side. Do not remove the propshaft from the transfer box output unless it really gets in the way and you want a pool of oil on the floor.
12. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir, wrap some cling film or a latex glove over the top of the reservoir and replace the caps (helps to make a vacuum and minimise the loss of fluid).
13. On the axle, O/S of the Diff Housing, top of axle tube, undo the axle breather pipe and put to one side for re-connection later.
14. On the axle, top of the Diff Housing, undo the bracket for the brake compensator link and tie up out of the way for re-connection later.
15. On the axle, O/S of the Diff Housing, find the flexi brake hose where the hydraulic brake line comes from the balance valve to the axle and undo the two metal brake lines (one at a time) coming away from it and going to the callipers. Be very careful not to damage the pipe when doing it and to either shear off or round off the unions. Have the two already prepared short pieces of brake line and unions to hand as these are used to block off the holes to prevent loss of brake fluid and reduce the brake bleeding efforts required once it all goes back together. Then undo the bolt holding the end of the flexi to the axle and put the flexi to one side and out of the way.
16. N/S On the axle, near the Brake Backplate undo the union where the metal brake line joins to the flexi pipe going to the calliper and withdraw the spring clip to allow the flexi to come away from the bracket. Put the brake pipe to one side for re-use later if it is serviceable. Put the spring clip to one side for re-use.
17. O/S On the axle, near the Brake Backplate undo the union where the metal brake line joins to the flexi pipe going to the calliper and withdraw the spring clip to allow the flexi to come away from the bracket. Put the brake pipe to one side for re-use later if it is serviceable. Put the spring clip to one side for re-use.
18. N/S On the axle, remove the Brake Calliper, Brake pads and Calliper Slider. Put to one side for refitting later. Dispose of the brake pads if replacing.
19. O/S On the axle, remove the Brake Calliper, Brake pads and Calliper Slider. Put to one side for refitting later. Dispose of the brake pads if replacing.
20. N/S On the axle, adjust the handbrake (via the adjuster that is reached through the small oval hole located in the brake Backplate and below the axle tube) sufficient to allow for the removal of the brake disk, remove the disk, and then strip out the handbrake shoes etc noting how they are fitted as you do it. Undo the two bolts holding the end of the hand brake outer sheaf to the brake back plate and the bolt on the trailing arm holding the outer sheaf to the trailing arm. Withdraw the handbrake cable from the brake back plate and put the brake parts and bolts to one side for re-use later.
21. O/S On the axle, adjust the handbrake (via the adjuster that is reached through the small oval hole located in the brake Backplate and below the axle tube) sufficient to allow for the removal of the brake disk, remove the disk, and then strip out the handbrake shoes etc noting how they are fitted as you do it. Undo the two bolts holding the end of the hand brake outer sheaf to the brake back plate and the bolt on the trailing arm holding the outer sheaf to the trailing arm. Withdraw the handbrake cable from the brake back plate and put the brake parts and bolts to one side for re-use later.
22. N/S On the axle, anti roll bar drop link, disconnect from the axle.
23. O/S On the axle, anti roll bar drop link, disconnect from the axle.
24. N/S On the axle, trailing arm mounting bracket underneath the axle tube next to the brake back plate, undo the nut on the bolt holding the trailing arm to the axle, give the bolt a sharp tap to loosen things up. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT.
25. O/S On the axle, trailing arm mounting bracket underneath the axle tube next to the brake back plate, undo the nut on the bolt holding the trailing arm to the axle, give the bolt a sharp tap to loosen things up. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT.
26. Centre of axle, above the Diff Housing. Centre trailing arm mounting bracket, undo the nut on the bolt holding the trailing arm to the axle, give the bolt a sharp tap to loosen things up. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT.
27. Confirm Axle resting on the Axle Stands.
28. O/S On the axle, O/S end of the sway bar, loosen and remove the nut and washer holding the sway bar in place, lever the sway bar off the mount and then remove the inner washer, tie the sway bar up out of the way and put the nut and washers to one side for re-use.
29. O/S On the axle, lower shock absorber mounting, loosen and remove the nut and washer holding the rubber bushes in place, remove the outer bush, prise the shock absorber off the mount and remove the inner bush and washer. Put the nut, washers and bushes to one side for re-use.
30. N/S On the axle, lower shock absorber mounting, loosen and remove the nut and washer holding the rubber bushes in place, remove the outer bush, prise the shock absorber off the mount and remove the inner bush and washer. Put the nut, washers and bushes to one side for re-use.
31. At this stage the Axle is still secured to the vehicle via the trailing arms but can fall to the ground if the axle stands are removed.
32. O/S On the axle, suspension spring, at this stage you should find the spring is loose and you can remove it without using a spring compression tool, remove the spring and the rubber seat (on the top of the spring) noting how it sits on the axle and in the location socket on the chassis, point to note is the positioning of the spring end vs the axle/location socket/rubber seat, put to one side for re-use.
33. N/S On the axle, suspension spring, at this stage you should find the spring is loose and you can remove it without using a spring compression tool, remove the spring and the rubber seat (on the top of the spring) noting how it sits on the axle and in the location socket on the chassis, point to note is the positioning of the spring end vs the axle/location socket/rubber seat, put to one side for re-use.
34. Pre-Position the trolley jack underneath the Diff Housing with the handle towards the rear of the vehicle.
35. Pre-Position a length of rope/ratchet strap on each end of the axle to aid control and moving the axle from underneath the vehicle once it’s fully disconnected.
36. Trolley jack, confirm the lift point is underneath the Diff Housing and take up enough pressure to just lift the axle off the axle stands.
37. Confirm the axle is balanced on the trolley jack.
38. Drop and remove both of the axle stands. Replace the axle stands with timbers that are just big enough to allow the removal of the trolley jack when it’s lowered.
39. Carefully lower the axle onto the timbers and remove the trolley jack.
40. Centre of axle, above the Diff Housing. Centre trailing arm mounting bracket, carefully remove the bolt holding the trailing arm to the axle, THE AXLE IS NOW ABLE TO ROTATE ALONG It’s LENGTH.
41. Under control, roll the axle back until it settles and you can reach the lower trailing arm bolts
42. O/S On the axle, trailing arm mounting bracket underneath the axle tube next to the brake back plate, carefully remove the bolt holding the trailing arm to the axle, put the bolt to one side for re-use.
43. N/S On the axle, trailing arm mounting bracket underneath the axle tube next to the brake back plate, carefully remove the bolt holding the trailing arm to the axle, put the bolt to one side for re-use.
44. The axle is now fully released from the car and can be removed.
45. Using the pre-positioned rope/ratchet straps lift and move the axle towards the rear of the vehicle and away.

Refitting the Axle (pretty much same as above, but in reverse)

1. Using the rope/ratchet straps lift and position the replacement axle underneath the car taking the axle in from the rear of the vehicle and placing it on the timbers left in place when the original axle was removed. Ensure the axle is the right way round (drive facing the front of the vehicle) and the right way up (top trailing arm mount on the top).
2. Rotate the axle back so the drive is facing up and you have easy access to the trailing arm mounting points.
3. ‘Jiggle’ the axle to align the trailing arm mounting points with the trailing arms.
4. O/S On the axle, trailing arm mounting bracket underneath the axle tube next to the brake back plate and the O/S trailing arm. Carefully line up the axle with the end of the trailing arm and slide the bolt into position. Loosely fit the nut on.
5. N/S On the axle, trailing arm mounting bracket underneath the axle tube next to the brake back plate and the N/S trailing arm. Carefully line up the axle with the end of the trailing arm and slide the bolt into position. Loosely fit the nut on.
6. Centre of axle, above the Diff Housing. Centre trailing arm, carefully rotate the axle and line up the trailing arm mounting bracket with the centre trailing arm and slide the bolt into position. Loosely fit the nut on.
7. The axle is now securely fixed to the vehicle and will not rotate.
8. Position the axle stands ready to be put into place after lifting the axle.
9. Position the jack under the rear axle diff housing.
10. Lift the axle, remove the timbers and position the two smaller axle stands under the axle. Then lower the axle onto the stands and put the jack to one side.
11. The axle is now fixed to the vehicle and supported on the axle stands.
12. O/S On the axle, suspension spring, having previously noted how it sits on the axle and in the location socket on the chassis (point to note is the positioning of the spring end vs the axle/location socket/rubber seat) loosely position the spring so it is in place ready for when the axle is lifted to allow the shock absorbers to be reconnected to the axle.
13. N/S On the axle, suspension spring, having previously noted how it sits on the axle and in the location socket on the chassis (point to note is the positioning of the spring end vs the axle/location socket/rubber seat) loosely position the spring so it is in place ready for when the axle is lifted to allow the shock absorbers to be reconnected to the axle.
14. O/S On the axle, lower shock absorber mounting, fit the inner washer (one with the large hole) and the inner shock absorber mounting bush and then align the shock absorber lower mounting position and slide it on to the mounting bolt, fit the outer bush, washer and nut. Tighten nut to prescribed torque. You may need to extend the shock absorber to get it to fit.
15. N/S On the axle, lower shock absorber mounting, fit the inner washer (one with the large hole) and the inner shock absorber mounting bush and then align the shock absorber lower mounting position and slide it on to the mounting bolt, fit the outer bush, washer and nut. Tighten nut to prescribed torque. You may need to extend the shock absorber to get it to fit.
16. Check that the springs have both seated correctly.
17. O/S On the axle, O/S end of the sway bar, fit the inner washer (one with the large hole) and align the axle to the sway bar. Slide the sway bar into place, fit the outer washer and nut. Tighten nut to prescribe torque. You may need to ‘jiggle’ the axle from side to side in order to line things up.
18. N/S On the axle, anti roll bar drop link, re-connect to the axle (or fit new).
19. O/S On the axle, anti roll bar drop link, re-connect to the axle (or fit new).
20. N/S On the axle, brake Backplate, re-fit the handbrake cable through the hole in the brake back plate and secure in position using the two bolts (10mm spanner) and secure the handbrake cable to the N/S trailing arm using the bracket and bolt (10mm spanner).
21. N/S On the axle, brake Backplate, clean up all handbrake components and taking note of the adjuster refit the handbrake shoes and fit it so the handbrake is tightened/loosened in the same manner on each side of the vehicle (ie if the lever pushes up then the brakes tighten and if pushed down they loosen) fit the disk.
22. O/S On the axle, brake Backplate, clean up all handbrake components and taking note of the adjuster refit the handbrake shoes and fit it so the handbrake is tightened/loosened in the same manner on each side of the vehicle (ie if the lever pushes up then the brakes tighten and if pushed down they loosen) fit the disk.
23. N/S On the axle, replace the Brake Calliper Slider, Brake pads and Calliper.
24. O/S On the axle, replace the Brake Calliper Slider, Brake pads and Calliper.
25. On the axle, O/S of the Diff Housing, re-fit the flexi brake hose from the balance valve to the axle, do not remove the two blank brake unions yet.
26. O/S On the axle, near the Brake Backplate, position the end of the flexi brake pipe to the calliper into the bracket and secure with the spring clip.
27. N/S On the axle, near the Brake Backplate, position the end of the flexi brake pipe to the calliper into the bracket and secure with the spring clip.
28. On the axle, O/S of the Diff Housing, splitter on the end of the flexi brake hose from the balance valve to the axle, have the O/S (shorter length of pipe) brake line ready and remove the blank (NOTE: POSSIBLE RELEASE OF BRAKE FLUID, WEAR EYE PROTECTION) in the upper outlet hole of the splitter, replacing it with the CORRECT end of the O/S brake line. Connect the other end of the brake line to the O/S flexi brake pipe located in the bracket on the axle and adjacent to the O/S brake back plate.
29. Check level of brake fluid in the reservoir and top up as required.
30. On the axle, O/S of the Diff Housing, splitter on the end of the flexi brake hose from the balance valve to the axle, have the N/S (longer length of pipe) brake line ready and remove the blank (NOTE: POSSIBLE RELEASE OF BRAKE FLUID, WEAR EYE PROTECTION) in the lower outlet hole of the splitter, replacing it with the CORRECT end of the N/S brake line. Connect the other end of the brake line to the N/S flexi brake pipe located in the bracket on the axle and adjacent to the N/S brake back plate.
31. Check level of brake fluid in the reservoir and top up as required.
32. On the axle, top of the Diff Housing, replace the bracket for the brake compensator link.
33. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and the material positioned to enable a vacuum to be formed ready for the bleeding of the rear brakes.
34. N/S brake calliper, fit a brake bleed kit to the bleed nipple and bleed the brake line to remove any air up to and including the calliper, topping up the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir as required DO NOT LET IT EMPTY.
35. O/S brake calliper, fit a brake bleed kit to the bleed nipple and bleed the brake line to remove any air up to and including the calliper, topping up the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir as required DO NOT LET IT EMPTY.
36. If the brake line was removed as per the instructions above and the brake fluid reservoir was not allowed to empty and thereby introduce air into the system there should be no need to bleed the brakes at the balance valve or anywhere else in the circuit as the fluid would have been trapped in the system. IF THERE’S ANY DOUBT THEN THE BRAKE SYSTEM MUST BE FULLY BLED AS PER THE OEM INSTRUCTIONS.
37. On the axle, O/S of the Diff Housing, top of axle tube, refit the axle breather pipe.
38. O/S refit the rear wheel, tighten wheel nuts to hold the wheel in place, do not try to torque the wheel nuts up at this stage.
39. N/S refit the rear wheel, tighten wheel nuts to hold the wheel in place, do not try to torque the wheel nuts up at this stage.
40. Give the handbrake a good pull to settle the handbrake shoes and then release.
41. Ensure the handbrake is OFF.
42. O/S brake back plate, using a tool to rotate the handbrake adjuster, adjust the handbrake shoe position while someone turns the rear wheel by hand until the brake shoes stop the wheel, then back it off enough to allow the wheel to rotate.
43. N/S brake back plate, using a tool to rotate the handbrake adjuster, adjust the handbrake shoe position while someone turns the rear wheel by hand until the brake shoes stop the wheel, then back it off enough to allow the wheel to rotate.
44. Put handbrake on and try to rotate the rear wheels by hand, they should be locked.
45. Handbrake OFF.
46. Re-connect the rear propshaft to the rear diff (14mm Spanner x 2).
47. Handbrake ON.
46. Position the jack under the rear axle diff housing and take sufficient pressure up to allow for the removal of the two axle stands under the axle. Remove both axle stands and lower the axle until it is self supporting on the shock absorbers. Remove the trolley jack.
47. Remove front wheel chocks.
48. O/S re-position the trolley jack and jack the vehicle up sufficient to remove the axle stand from under the chassis next to the trailing arm mounting point. Remove axle stand and lower vehicle to the ground under control.
49. N/S re-position the trolley jack and jack the vehicle up sufficient to remove the axle stand from under the chassis next to the trailing arm mounting point. Remove axle stand and lower vehicle to the ground under control.
50. Centre of axle, above the Diff Housing. Centre trailing arm mounting bracket, as the axle is now pretty much in it’s normal operating position you can now tighten the nut to the prescribed torque and lock up the bracket to the tube that goes through the bush, this will reduce the strain on the bush as it’s sitting in it’s normal position to the axle and bracket.
51. N/S On the axle, trailing arm mounting bracket underneath the axle tube next to the brake back plate, as the axle is now pretty much in it’s normal operating position you can now tighten the nut to the prescribed torque and lock up the bracket to the tube that goes through the bush, this will reduce the strain on the bush as it’s sitting in it’s normal position to the axle and bracket.
52. O/S On the axle, trailing arm mounting bracket underneath the axle tube next to the brake back plate, as the axle is now pretty much in it’s normal operating position you can now tighten the nut to the prescribed torque and lock up the bracket to the tube that goes through the bush, this will reduce the strain on the bush as it’s sitting in it’s normal position to the axle and bracket.
53. O/S Tighten wheels nuts to the prescribed torque.
54. N/S Tighten wheels nuts to the prescribed torque.
55. Check axle oil level, top up or drain and replace as required.
56. Enable engine start system.
57. Start vehicle and check handbrake, adjust as required.

Job complete. Easy enough for a steady Saturdays entertainment!

[lee771]

Bleeding hecknow snapper!!!! Thank you for taking the time to Wright such an indepth reply, when I first saw it is thought "not a chance can I do all that" but after reading it it has given me a bit of confidence

And your right may as well replace the consumables while in there.

Now if a spanner party was to be thrown, I may be able to sort the use of a full on mechanic work shop, I work at a college and they have a very good mechanics block, just not sure that I would trust the students to work on my truck!! They have a few 2 posters and I get on really well with the guy that's in charge of it, if he agrees no reason why a few trucks couldn't have a bit of surgery in one go?

Thanks

Lee

[gregster]

I prefer...
1.Fill kettle and turn on to boil...
2.lift car by roof with forklift...
3.cut links with gas axe...axle falls onto two old tyres...
4. Lower car to floor clear of axle...
5. Park folklift, and wait by kettle for it to finish boiling and make a brew..

I dont very often do putting back together, and sadly this in not simply the reverse of above...